 Sexing this early is on average 90% correct Buck? Anus and Penis further apart giving a larger visible gap. Genital area usually slightly larger  Doe? Anus and Vagina close together Genital area generally looks even size 
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 This is a list of names: Male edition! Naming your new furry friend can be so difficult. Have you got a male bunny and need to find a name for him? Here I have put together a helpful list of names for male rabbits, I have many names to help you from A-Z. Please feel free to add to the list in the comments.
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 Naming your new rabbit can be so difficult- Finding a name that suits them sometimes feels impossible! Have you recently got a female rabbit and are stumped for names or nothing you think of suits her? I know I have been in this position a few times! Therefore, I have written a list to help give some ideas for you. Please feel free to leave suggestions!!
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 This chart is solely a guide. Of course these aren't set rules, especially if you work with the Vienna gene. But these are some guidelines to help plan your future matings! HarliWhat does it contain? Harlequin, Magpie Breed with: Harli to agouti or other harli/magpie, Magpie to chin/harli DON'T breed with: Sable, Otter (You can breed to these but be aware you may get harlequinized colours which aren't showable) BEW (blue eyed white)What does it contain? BEW, VC, VM Breed with: Agouti, Self, VC DON'T breed with: REW SableWhat does it contain? Siamese sable, smoke, sable marten, smoke marten, seal point, blue point, chocolate point, lilac point Breed with: Points, Torts, REW DON'T breed with: Chin, agouti, tort agouti TortWhat does it contain? Sooty fawn (black tort), Blue tort (Beige, Isabella), Chocolate tort (Sussex gold), Lilac tort (Sussex cream) Breed with: Selfs, Tort agouti, Points, Irongrey/sallander DON'T breed with: Otters, Harli, Chins, Marten sable/smoke SelfWhat does it contain? Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac Breed with: Otters, Torts DON'T breed with: Chins OtterWhat does it contain? Black otter, Blue otter, Chocolate otter, Lilac otter Breed with: Each other, Selfs, Chinchilla, Fox DON"T breed with: Torts Tort AgoutiWhat does it contain? Orange, Chocolate Orange, Fawn, Lilac fawn Breed with: Each other, Tort, Harli DON'T breed with: Chins, Sables, Otters AgoutiWhat does it contain? Agouti, Cinnamon, Lynx, Opal Breed with: Each other, self, otter DON'T breed with: Anything in the sable category ChinchillaWhat does it contain?
Chinchilla, Squirrel (Blue Chinchilla, Lilac Chinchilla, Chocolate Chinchilla , (Blue etc..)Fox Iron grey/Sallander, Frosty Point Breed with: Each other, possibly REW if background is known DON'T Breed with: Anything in the sable category Firstly, it should be noted that mini lops are a dwarf breed. Not every Mini lops has the dwarf gene though, some may have no dwarf gene and are known as a false dwarf, Most true to type mini lops have one copy of the gene though. If even one of the parents are a false dwarf, there will NOT be peanuts. Many people get confused by this- runts can also commonly have bulging eyes and are a small size- so it is important to take into account the parents size etc as well as the babies attributes to determine if you do in fact have a peanut. For example: Teddy is a TRUE dwarf at 2.5lbs, this means that he has ONE copy of the dwarf gene. On the other hand, Luna, is a FALSE dwarf, weighing around 5lbs. There is a large weigh difference yet both are purebred mini lops! On average, Mini lops above 3.5lbs (1.55kg) have a higher chance of being true. Though, True dwarfs can sometimes exceed this. So, if you breed two mini lops who both have one dwarf gene (True dwarfs), most of the babies will have one dwarf gene. Some will have no dwarf gene. And some will have two copies of the dwarf gene, and be a peanut. TRUE Dwarf x TRUE dwarf= 25% chance False dwarf 50% chance True dwarf , 25% chance peanut Therefore, if you get no peanuts, its a 50% chance babies will be false or true TRUE Dwarf x FALSE dwarf= 50% chance False dwarf 50% chance True dwarf FALSE Dwarf x FALSE dwarf= 100% False dwarf Peanuts are heartbreaking. They have the double dwarf gene.. they NEVER survive. There is no exception to this, so if you have a 'peanut' that survived it was just a RUNT. Peanuts will always die within a few days. Though much rarer, some peanuts can live long enough to grow fur and even open their eyes- but this is exceptionally rare though. Their siblings birth weight with double in just a few days, Whilst, The peanut might even get smaller. but unfortunately the peanut will never grow and will eventually pass. HOW TO TELL IF I HAVE A PEANUT? 1) SIZE - A peanut will be very tiny, likely less than half the size of their siblings 2) EYES- Their eyes will be very large and bulge from there head 3) EARS- Ears will be very very small 4) HEAD- will be domed and large forehead 5) HINDQUARTERS- Will be less than half the width of the normal kit It is clear when you see a peanut that it is very underdeveloped on the outside. You cannot tell if you have a peanut just from size alone. Please also be aware that a peanut is ONLY found in dwarf breeds! Unfortunately, it is very likely if you are breeding dwarf breeds you WILL come across peanuts at some point. My Skye had a litter of 3 peanuts- very unlucky as her whole litter passed... this is a normal, but heartbreaking thing to happen. Breeding isn't all good and straight forward. Below is a picture of 2 of Skye's peanut babies for educational purposes. Please remember a tiny baby doesn't automatically mean peanut- it is important to know the difference! Colours can be split into two different categories, which are black based, and chocolate based. It should be noted that chocolate and Black are both dense colours. So with black, two dilute genes will turn the black to blue. Similarly, Wth chocolate based bunnies, two dilute genes will turn the chocolate to lilac. Therefore, for every black colour, there is a corresponding blue colour: for example (Chestnut Black agouti) to Opal (Blue agouti). Then for every chocolate colour there is a corresponding lilac colour an example of this could be Chocolate Tort to Lilac Tort. The Genetics Behind it So firstly, the dominant d-gene is the “dense” gene which is known as “D.” So Dense color gene rabbits (Black or Chocolate) can be either “DD” or “Dd.” The “DD” rabbits are often known as “true-breeding” which means that they are not dilute carriers. Where as rabbits that are “Dd” carry the dilute gene. Please note that the “dilute” gene is a recessive gene and is known as "d". Dilute bunnies are always “dd” and cannot carry nor produce dense coloured rabbits when paired together. In conclusion; There are only three different combinations of the dense/dilute gene which are: “DD," (Dense NOT carrying dilute) “Dd,” (Dense CARRYING dilute) and “dd.” (DILUTE) Dense Color Family DD or Dd Dilute Color Family dd Black Blue Chocolate Lilac Black Tort Blue Tort Chocolate Tort Lilac Tort Chestnut (Black Agouti ) Opal (Blue Agouti) Cinnamon (Choc Agouti) Lynx (Lilac Agouti) Orange (Orange Agouti) Fawn Chocolate Orange Lilac Fawn Chinchilla Squirrel (Blue Chinchilla) Chocolate Chinchilla Lilac Chinchilla Black Frosty. Blue Frosty Chocolate Frosty Lilac Frosty Seal Point Blue Point Chocolate Point Lilac point Siamese Sable (Black Sable) Siamese Smoke Chocolate Sable Lilac Sable How is this shown in Breeding?DD (Dense NOT carrying dilute) x dd (Dilute)
d d D| Dd Dd D| Dd Dd = 100% Dense CARRYING dilute (Dd) Therefore, Only Dd bunnies are possible from this mating ____________________________ Dd (Dense CARRYING dilute) x dd (Dilute) d d D| Dd Dd d| dd dd 50% Chance - dd 50% Chance- Dd Approximately 50% Chance of producing a "dd" dilute based kits or a "Dd" kit which is a Dense carrying dilute ____________________________ Dd (Dense CARRYING dilute) x Dd (Dense CARRYING dilute) D d D| DD Dd d| Dd dd 25% Chance - DD 50% Chance- Dd 25% Chance- dd Approximately 25% will be True-breeding dense "DD" which are dense that do NOT carry dilute, 50% chance of producing a dense that does CARRY dilute which is "Dd" and finally a 25% chance of producing a Dilute based kit ____________________________ DD (Dense NOT carrying dilute) x Dd (Dense CARRYING dilute) D d D| DD Dd D| DD Dd 50% Chance - DD 50% Chance- Dd This is the last combination possible in breeding dense/dilute. On average, half of the kits will be "DD" which means they are dense NOT carrying the dilute gene, or they may be "Dd" which is Dense that does CARRY the dilute gene. All babies will be DENSE colours so test breeding is the only way to find the true genotypes Please note that Dilute x Dilute CANNOT produce a dense colour! For example: Lilac x Lilac CANNOT produce chocolate based babies, Same as Blue x Blue CANNOT create black based babies; and if this was to happen to you then one of your parents are mis-identified colours :) Hope this helps clear up bunny dilution genetics! The Vienna Gene is what makes Blue eyed Whites (aka BEW). Blue eyed whites have bright blue eyes. A blue eyed white (also known as BEW) is rabbit with two Vienna genes: vv. Opposed to a non-vienna rabbit that has two regular genes: VV. A Vienna marked rabbit is a rabbit that carries just one Vienna gene and one normal gene which is: Vv. Vienna marked rabbits generally have ‘dutch’ markings or white on its nose, head or feet. A Vienna carrier still has the same genetics of Vv but they don't visually express the gene with Vienna markings. Breeding Vienna rabbits VIENNA MARKED X VIENNA MARKED When two Vienna marked rabbits are bred together there is a 25% chance for each offspring being a BEW, 50% chance of being Vienna marked rabbits and 25% of being a ‘Normal rabbit’ with no Vienna gene. V v V| VV (Non Vienna) Vv (Vienna) v | vV (Vienna). vv (BEW) VIENNA MARKED X BEW When a Vienna marked rabbit is bred to a BEW, there is a 50% chance of the Kit being BEW and a 50% chance of it being a Vienna marked offspring. v v V| Vv (Vienna) Vv (Vienna) v | vv (BEW) vv(BEW) BEW X BEW If two BEW rabbits are bred together, then there would be a 100% chance of BEW offspring. v v v| vv (BEW) vv (BEW) v| vv (BEW) vv (BEW) NON-VIENNA MARKED X BEW When a ‘Normal’ non-Vienna, rabbit are bred with a BEW then there is a 100% chance the offspring with be Vienna marked or Vienna carriers. V V v| Vv (Vienna ) Vv (Vienna marked) v| Vv (Vienna) Vv (Vienna marked) NON-VIENNA MARKED X VIENNA MARKED When a Non-Vienna marked is crossed with a Vienna marked rabbit, each kit has a 50% chance of Vienna marked rabbits and 50% chance being Non-Vienna offspring. V V V| VV (Non-Vienna) VV (Non-Vienna) v | Vv (Vienna) Vv (Vienna) What does a Vienna mark look like? Vienna marked rabbits typically have ‘dutch’ markings or white on its nose, head or feet. Vienna marked bunnies can also be born with blue or marbled eyes but can have brown eyes. Whether they are ‘split’ with blue eyes or have a white spot and brown eyes, they are both genetically Vv. Within this blog you may see me call a bunny with the Vienna gene a 'Vienna marked' , Please note the rules and information in this blog also applies for Vienna carriers. If a bunny carries the Vienna gene (Vv) There is a 50/50 chance if they express the gene through markings or as carriers. Rabbits have a sensitive digestive system that requires a high fibre, low sugar and low fat diet. There are a number of human foods that you should avoid feeding your rabbit, including:
 IN A RABBITS DIET THEY NEED...
Water Consistent access to fresh, clean drinking water. This can be drank from either a water bottle or water bowl. If your rabbit lives outdoors you must ensure that the rabbits water supply doesn't freeze in the winter. Without water rabbits can get very seriously ill. Hay Rabbits also need an unlimited supply of good quality hay and/or grass. This should make up 80% of a rabbit's diet and should always be available. Rabbits are grazers and their digestive systems need hay and/or grass to function properly. Rabbit teeth also grow continuously and need to be worn down and kept at the correct length by eating hay and/or grass. Pellets You can give a small amount of commercial rabbit pellets (a egg cup per day) but this is not essential and should not be the main part of their diet. It is recommended to only give a small amount of pellets a day, however growing or pregnant rabbits may need larger portions. Please avoid muesli-style foods as they can be linked with certain health problems - and can cause selective eating resulting in a rabbit not getting the essential nutrients they need. Not eating the right diet can result in serious dental disease- which would not only be uncomfortable for your bunny, but also a very expensive vet trip. Veg Once your bunny reaches 6 months of age you can give them safe, washed leafy green vegetables, herbs and plants daily. Vegtables should not be given to bunnies under 6 months of age as this can upset their digestive system.Root vegetables such as carrots and fruit should only be given in small amounts as occasional treats as they are very high in sugar. SAFE VEGGIES LISTVegetables that should be considered as part of your rabbit’s diet:
For older buns, or those with bladder or kidney problems, avoid these, unless otherwise directed by your rabbit vet.
I really recommend creating your bunnies a forage box to demonstrate their natural instincts of digging and foraging for food. I use a mix of dried flowers, veg, herbs, berries etc mixed into Timothy hay and readigrass.  Getting to know your bunny and what they do/don’t like can really help build bonds with them and can be an indication of how much they trust you etc.
Binkying: This is a sign of happiness and excitement. This action is known as a ‘Binky’ and is presented when a bunny will run, jump and twist mid-air. Your bunny is very content Buzzing: This ‘buzzing sound’ usually indicates that your bunny is ready to mate, it can also mean that your bunny is very happy. A neutered/spayed bunny can still make this buzzing sound, although of course it isn’t relevant to ready to mate. Chinning: ‘MINE!’, if you look closely, rabbits have scent glands under their chin. So, when they are chinning objects, they’re marking their territory with pheromones. This smell isn’t strong enough for humans to smell. Licking: If your bunny licks you, this is a sign of love and complete trust <3 Circling: This is a behaviour that is found when your bunny is ready to mate as a way of courting, although it may also mean your bunny wants your attention. Therefore, I recommend to give them more quality time/fuss/a treat which will get them to stop; for now! Flopping: This is so entertaining to watch! Your bunny will ‘flop’ (usually after stretching) very dramatically to one side, or even a full roll! Rabbits do this when they are feeling really comfortable and relaxed. It’s so cute to witness! SPLOOT: Your bunny’s hind legs will be stretched out behind your bunny as they are lay down. This looks very comical and means that your rabbit Is feeling safe and relaxed. Nose-Nudging: When your bunny nudges you, it either means ‘get out my way!’ or it can be if your bunny wants more pets. For example: you could be giving them fuss, stop, and then they will nudge your hand for you to continue. Playing: Bunnies play by throwing around and picking up objects. My bunnies love to throw around seagrass balls and wooden chews. They also love empty toilet rolls to play with, so don’t throw them away! Tooth clicking: This sound is similar to purring and means that they are content. This sound will usually be heard when you are stroking your bunny as they will likely be calm and relaxed. Honking: This usually means your bunny, regardless of gender, wants to be bred. It’s a indicator for maturity as it’s a act of courting. Although this can sometimes just mean that they’re happy. Biting: a sign of aggression. This means that they are scared or angry. Biting may be triggered if they do not want to be messed with and/or they feel threatened by you. Sometimes your bunny will bite out of fear and this can be hard but not impossible to break the habit. If you have been bitten give you bun some space and after a while slowly approach your rabbit from the side (so they can see you and aren’t startled) with a treat and pets. After reading a lot of different advice, I would NEVER EVER encourage or recommend you hit your bunny. This will not only will make it harder to bond with your bunny: But will also consolidate for them that you are a threat and the negative behaviour will worsen. Grunting: Indicating anger or unhappiness about something going on around them. They may scratch and bite whilst grunting; this can be due to feeling threatened by something in their environment or being territorial. Lunging: This generally happens when your bunny is feeling territorial of their space, a potential way to get them used to this could be giving them a treat so that they associate the cage opening to something positive. Also, approach them slowly and from the side so that they are able to see you as you approach so that they don’t get startled. Screeching: If your bunny screams (very high-pitched noise) it usually means they are extremely scared or in excruciating pain. This is horrific to hear. This could be due to a bunny being extremely unsocialised. Please always make sure that you approach your bunny slowly and NEVER wake them from sleeping. They must be awake and alert to their surroundings. Mounting: Of Couse in the case of un-fixed of the opposite gender bunnies mounting indicates intercourse. Although, bunnies of the same gender will usually mount one another, this is very common and is a sign of dominance. In some cases, though, be sure to make sure that you truly have the gender of bunnies you were told as sometimes even the best breeders make mistakes. So, it is always best to get your bunnies gender confirmed by a rabbit Savvy vet when they have their first check-ups in their new home. Nipping: This is different to biting as it usually indicates then want your attention although this behaviour should still be discouraged. A bunny could also nip you accidently whilst trying to groom you. Nipping is a softer, and more gentle bite which isn’t due to aggression. Thumping- Usually expresses anger or irritation to something going on around them. for example: Un-neutered males will thump when with a female to show dominance as well. Although, this can also be a way of your bunny telling you they want more attention. |
