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Colours can be split into two different categories, which are black based, and chocolate based. It should be noted that chocolate and Black are both dense colours. So with black, two dilute genes will turn the black to blue. Similarly, Wth chocolate based bunnies, two dilute genes will turn the chocolate to lilac. Black based bunnies are either “BB” or “Bb.” If you cannot see a chocolate or lilac based bunny in the bunnies pedigree it is pretty safe to say they are “BB.”. However, just because chocolate is in their pedigree, doesn't mean if they carry it. The only way to guarantee a Black based (or blue) bunny carries chocolate is if one of the parents are Chocolate Based (Or Lilac). Just because there is lilac or chocolate further in the pedigree does not mean they are guaranteed to carry chocolate genetically- though there is a chance. For example: Autumn and Skye are siblings with one lilac grandparent. This gives them a 25% chance. Skye carries chocolate whereas Autumn does not. Chocolate based bunnies are always “bb" as chocolate is a recessive colour. Chocolate based bunnies cannot carry the black gene “B.” OR produce black based bunnies when bred to another chocolate based. How is this shown in Breeding?BB (Black NOT carrying Chocolate) x bb (Chocolate) b b B| Bb Bb B| Bb Bb = 100% Black CARRYING Chocolate (Shown as Bb) Therefore, Only Bb bunnies are possible from this mating ____________________________ Bb (Black CARRYING Chocolate) x bb (Chocolate) b b B| Bb Bb b| bb bb 50% Chance - Bb (Black based CARRYING Chocolate) 50% Chance- bb (Chocolate based) Approximately 50% Chance of producing "bb" chocolate based kist or a "Bb" kit which is a Black based carrying chocolate ____________________________ Bb (Black CARRYING Chocolate) x Bb (Black CARRYING Chocolate) B b B| BB Bb b| Bb bb 25% Chance - BB 50% Chance- Bb 25% Chance- bb Approximately 25% will be True-breeding Black "BB" which do NOT carry Chocolate, 50% chance of producing a Black based that does CARRY Chocolate which is "Bb" and finally a 25% chance of producing a Chocolate based kit (bb). ____________________________ BB (Black NOT carrying Chocolate) x Bb (Black CARRYING Chocolate) B b B| BB Bb B| BB Bb 50% Chance - BB 50% Chance- Bb On average, half of the kits will be "BB" which means they are Black NOT carrying the Chocolate gene, or they may be "Bb" which is Black that does CARRY the Chocolate gene. All babies will be Black based so test breeding is the only way to find the true genotypes Please note that Chocolate (bb) x Chocolate (bb) CANNOT produce a Black Based colour! For example: Chocolate x Lilac (Both Chocolate Based) CANNOT produce Blue or Black based babies, If this was to happen to you, then one of your parents are mis-identified colours :) Hope this helps clear up bunny dilution genetics!  Sooty Fawn Split (Black Tort) vs Chocolate Tort Split
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Firstly, it should be noted that mini lops are a dwarf breed. Not every Mini lops has the dwarf gene though, some may have no dwarf gene and are known as a false dwarf, Most mini lops have one copy of the gene though. For example: Teddy is a TRUE dwarf at 2.5lbs, this means that he has ONE copy of the dwarf gene. On the other hand, Autumn, is a FALSE dwarf, weighing around 4.4lbs. There is a large weigh difference yet both are purebred mini lops!
So, if you breed two mini lops who both have one dwarf gene (True dwarf), most of the babies will have one dwarf gene. Some will have no dwarf gene. And some will have two copies of the dwarf gene, and be a peanut. TRUE Dwarf x TRUE dwarf= 25% chance False dwarf 50% chance True dwarf , 25% chance peanut Therefore, if you get no peanuts, its a 50% chance babies will be false or true TRUE Dwarf x FALSE dwarf= 50% chance False dwarf 50% chance True dwarf FALSE Dwarf x FALSE dwarf= 100% False dwarf  POST IN PROGRESS Apple Cider VinegarApple Cider Vinegar contains lots of vitamins and minerals that help maintain the overall health of our buns. AVC is also known to prevent urinary tract infections in your bunny; ACV is known to improve/aid digestion and therefore increase the absorption levels of nutrients through the G.I tract. On top go this AVC benefits your bunny by in keeping their fur coat shiny and smooth. I recommend a teaspoon for every 1 litre of water. Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (BOSS)BOSS is great to feed to bunnies in moult! It helps to promote a shiny coat and helps bunnies through moulting. In addition, Black oil sunflower seeds are great to feed in the winter time as they are packed full of fat, vitamin E, high levels of protein and most importantly, Fibre (which is extremely important for bunnies) so it helps to provide a bunny with extra calories to burn in the winter which thus helps keep them warm. BOSS is a great source of energy: I would recommend limiting your bunny to 6 maximum daily, for a short period of time as BOSS is highly calorific. Blackberry LeavesGreat tonic for pregnant does. Not only are Blackberry plants (& Berries) full of antioxidants, fibre & vitamins, but they are also great for anti-inflammatory which can to help boost immunity, improve skin condition and can even help to alleviate inflammatory illnesses like arthritis. BorageBorage works well to Increases milk flow of nursing does, due to very high calcium levels. If your bunny is not a nursing doe, I would recommend only occasionally feeding Borage due to the calcium content. Borage is also known to help with fevers (cool bunnies down) and reduce stress. Birch (Leaves & Bark)Birch leaves are fantastic; they are high in fibre & support urinary function of bunnies so is great to help prevent urinary tract infections. Birch branches and bark is really good for chewing, which ultimately helps bunnies teeth to keep them worn down. Birch is also a natural pain reliever and anti-inflammatory! ChamomileOne of my personal favourites! Chamomile is both antibacterial and antiseptic so is amazing to feed to a poorly bunny to help them heal. Most of all; Chamomile is perfect for a nervous bunny; and is known to naturally relax and calm the bunny. Another great use for chamomile is as a eye wash for weepy eyes! A cup of Chamomile tea and Honey (tsp) make the perfect tonic to use as an eye wash; both Chamomile and Honey are antibacterial- Simply use a syringe and squirt gently into the affected eye - however, DO NOT let your bunny drink the eye wash. ComfreyComfrey is great to boost the immune system and also aid digestion as it overall has good fibre content. Comfrey is also a good source of vitamin A. In addition to this, it is really good in the diets of pregnant and nursing does as a prental supplement. DandelionDandelions are very nutritious, an are well known for its curative power. It is also known to be blood purifying. Dandelion is used in many respiratory ailments to help combat problems such as respiratory infections. Like Blackberry leaves, Dandelion is anti-inflammatory & great for diuretic health, meaning it helps reduce the risk of bladder infections & diarrhea. Dandelions are also amazing to increase milk flow of nursing does, this is due to the sap in the plant stimulating the bunnies glands (such as milk gland) EchinaceaEchinacea is a fantastic plant: which has a multitude of benefits, with the most effective being an immune booster. Echinacea is widely used in aiding "Snuffles" bunnies symptoms (alongside antibiotics of course) : It is also a natural antibiotic. In addition, Echinacea is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antimicrobial and anti-viral. This is one of my favourite plants: I mix small amounts in my feed to maintain my bunnies good immune systems.It increases the production of Protein (interferon) in the bunny. And it also has properties that increase the number of white blood cells in the bunnies bloodstream which therefore slows the spread of infection and gives more free white blood cells available to fight any infections. Thus improving the bunnies immune system. FennelFennel is very rich in fibre; bunnies can eat the entire Fennel plant including the stalks and bulb. It is in the perennial (carrot) family. Fennel contains a large range of Potassium, Manganese, Vitamin C and a huge range of antioxidants. In fact, there is a unique antioxidant which fennel contains (called anethole), which is fantastic to help fight against inflammation in the bunny and most interestingly cancer. Fennel is brilliant to feed bunnies to help reduce bloating and gas build up. Finally: Fennel is great to feed nursing does to increase their milk flow due to the calcium content. LavenderLavender is proven to be a very mild tranquilliser for bunnies; which in essence means that it slows down your bunnies heart rate which means bunnies will feel more relaxed and calm after eating it. You may find bunnies try and avoid lavender though as it is quite a potent smelling flower: however has a range of benefits for your bunnies health such as de-stressing the bunny and helping to aid blood circulation problems and helps combat exhaustion. If you are a breeder: Lavender can induce an overdue doe- as it causes contractions to start. In addition, it helps to expel any placental materials . IF YOU ARE A BREEDER PLEASE USE WITH CAUTION Not be fed to pregnant does as it can cause premature labour Lemon BalmLemon balm is a really interesting herb as it has such a large range of properties to help maintain your bunnies health. First of all, Lemon balm is great to help combat bloating and gas. This is because as it's digested, it starts to breaks down into a chemical that relaxes the bunnies muscles. By relaxing the muscles in the stomach it can reduce gas build up. On the other hand, the other muscles relaxing give a calming effect on your bunny so it has a calming effect. Lemon balm is also antiviral, anti bacterial and can reduce the risk of a diahorrea. Marigold (AKA Calendula)..........
 There are many social and health benefits to be gained from getting your bunny neutered/spayed; a few of which I will discuss in the following few paragraphs What is neutering?Neutering an animal is a surgical procedure to remove the animals reproductive organs which prevents any reproduction, & helps level hormones. Neutering is when the bucks' testicles are removed; the testicles are the bucks main source of testosterone production so removing them significantly reduces the levels of the hormone in the bucks body thus impacting positively on hormonal/territorial behaviours. These behaviours include spraying, territorial pooping, aggression etc; whilst neutering isn't guaranteed to stop these behaviours- it has proven to reduce them. For does, their neutering procedure, known as Spaying, and is the removal of the ovaries and uterus - meaning that she can no longer reproduce. When should my rabbit be neutered?On average, bunnies can get neutered at around 4-6 months old. Bucks can be neutered as soon as their balls decend at around 10-12 weeks old, however vets will likely encourage you to wait a little longer if possible, especially if the bunny is a dwarf breed. Most vets support the widespread standard of a 1kg weight minimum for a neutering procedure; this isn't always practical in every case though due to breeds/runts etc, but below this weight can increase the risks of anaesthesia. Males can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks post op as some sperm can be retained in the genital tract. I recommend bucks that leave me to be neutered at around 4 months old and does 5-6 months as a spay procedure is more invasive! Should I let my bunny have babies? If your reason to breed is: to have cute babies, it would be nice for the doe to be a mom, improve the does health, or even for a bit of cash- then I strongly recommend you do NOT breed! The only breeding that I support is knowledgable hobby breeders of purebred bunnies like myself who put the bunnies welfare above everything and only breed from healthy, friendly buns! I strongly disagree with intentional crossbreeding- there is no purpose bringing more mixed breed bunnies into the world as it will not improve a breed standard and mixed breed bunnies make up the majority of rabbits in rescues etc. There's a common misconception that breeding is lucrative, it isn't! Personally, my bunnies are my pets and keeping them happy, healthy and enriching their lives is my priority so I don't even 'break even'! 'Breeding like rabbits' insinuates that having litters is easy, but having a litter is VERY time consuming and anything but easy. Birth to 8 weeks is a crucial stage in a bunnies development so its very important that they're properly socialised. It should also be noted that there is a lot that can go wrong and with that: emergency vet visits, emergency spays, eclampsia, prolapse, stuck kits, death, peanuts, DOA's, hand rearing orphans and much more. Bunnies don't really get the emotional benefit as we may get from having a baby- meaning if spayed, they won't pine for babies. This means that there is no real reason to let your rabbit have a litter if you're not a breeder. In all honesty, delaying neutering of pet bunnies can increase negative consequences such as urine marking, cancers, unwanted pregnancy and development of unwanted behaviours. Please note: I do NOT sell bunnies as pets to be bred; and only sell to a very select few breeders. What are the health benefits?
 The Accessories: What Do I Need For a Bunny?Below I have created Amazon lists with recommended products for your bunnies. I have covered a range of items from Litter trays to toy to plush beds! LITTER TRAYS- CLICK HERE TO SHOP LITTER TRAYS When choosing a litter tray for your bunny, you should take into consideration the size, shape and anticipate that your bunny will like to dig in it so higher sides are desirable! I do not recommend corner litter trays, due to the shape making it more likely for bunnies to pee over the edge, and the sizing often not being big enough for two plus bunnies t o comfortably fit together. I also recommend litter trays with a built in hay rack; such as the ones Manor Pet Housing sell- CLICK HERE HAY RACKS - CLICK HERE TO SHOP HAY RACKS I strongly recommend having multiple hay racks, including one above your litter tray, my bunnies each have 2, if not 3 hay racks in their hutches. It is very important for hay to be accessible at all times as hay contributes up to 80% of a bunnies diet. I personally use the screw in hay racks on the Amazon list, and also use 'Hay Drums' WATER BOTTLES- CLICK HERE TO SHOP WATER BOTTLES It is a controversial topic whether bunnies are better to have a water bottle or a bowl. on one hand, the bowl makes it easier and faster for water consumption, however can get very dirty easily and often spill. Whereas bottle keep the water fresh and clean, though some bunnies may find it irritating if the water doesn't come out fast enough! My bunnies use 'sippy' bottles, (as well as a small bowl) where the water comes out much faster than the generic water bottles you see at pet stores (3rd pic along). If you are undecided whether a bottle or a bowl is bets- why not go for this product from Manor Pet Housing which is a gravity water bowl that is elevated from the ground so that it dense get as dirty as bowls! HIDES & CASTLES- CLICK HERE TO SHOP HIDES & CASTLES Bunnies naturally love to jump and hide, in any set up, I strongly recommend having a area where bunnies can exhibit their natural behaviours to jump and play! Asides from the ones I have found on Amazon; Manor Pet Housing & Small Paws Playtime have a fantastic range of castles and other amazing wooden houses. BUNNY BEDS- CLICK HERE TO SHOP BUNNY BEDS Here are a collection of bunny beds! Bunnies do not need theses plush beds but they are nice place for bunnies to flop! Some bunnies like to go potty on plush beds however a few of my bunnies love sleeping them! IKEA does a fab doll bed that works fabulous for bunnies- CLICK HERE TOYS - CLICK HERE TO SHOP BUNNY TOYS Bunnies love a range of toys, from balls, gnaw toys to tunnels and stacking cups! Different toys, help bunnies exhibit natural behaviours in different ways- so its always good of bunnies to have as many toys as possible! I like mine to have at least 5 at any given time! FOOD BOWLS- CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOOD BOWLS Bunnies will practically eat out of any bowl, or even bowl! I find ceramic bowls best with my bunnies, as they find them harder to tip over and cannot be chewed. I also found a few plastic feeders of amazon which include hay feeders- though too small for a days hay supply, this idea is good as it's an extra hay rack! GROOMING - CLICK HERE TO SHOW GROOMING SUPPLIES It is important to keep your bunnies coat nice and slick, remove any dead fur when you can. Bunnies go through moults at various times of the year so in this period they will need to be groomed more frequently. What to Feed Your Bunny?PELLETS (5% OF BUNNIES DIETS) Here are my top 5 choices for pellets: 1) Burgess Excel Tasty Nuggets for Junior and Dwarf Rabbits with Mint - CLICK HERE 2) Supreme Science Selective - CLICK HERE 3) Chudleys Rabbit Pellets - CLICK HERE 4) Allen & Page Natural Rabbit Pellets- CLICK HERE 5) Burgess Excel Natures Blend - CLICK HERE HAY (80% OF BUNNIES DIETS) Meadow 7 Timothy hay are the best varieties for bunnies to eat daily, alfalfa and other legume based hays contain too much calcium for long term use; however can be fed occasionally or when growing/pregnant. Here are my top 5 choices for Hay: 1) Natures Own Devon Meadow Hay XL - CLICK HERE 2) Natures Own Timothy Rich 5 a Day Hay - CLICK HERE 3) Pets At Home Meadow/Timothy Mix - CLICK HERE 4) Burgess Excel Herbage Timothy Hay - CLICK HERE 5) Burgess Excel Long Stem Small Animal Feeding Hay- CLICK HERE TREATS (1% DIET) Treats should be occasionally offered. Never EVER buy any treats with seeds in as these are known to actually kill bunnies from blockages. There is always the alternative of making your own treats- CLICK HERE TO SEE MY TREAT RECIPE BLOG Here are my top 5 choices for Treats: 1) Supreme Selective Naturals Fibafirst 2kg- CLICK HERE 2) Supreme Selective Naturals Meadow Loops 80g - CLICK HERE 3) Supreme Selective Naturals Garden Sticks 60g - CLICK HERE 4) Burgess Excel Apple Snacks, 80 g - CLICK HERE 5) Rosewood Naturals Snap-n-Share Vegetable Bar Treat 125 g - CLICK HERE VEGETABLES/FRUIT/FORAGE (24% DIET) Please refer to my blog regarding safe vegetables and fruit for your bunnies to enjoy!
CLICK HERE FORAGE It is important for bunnies to have a range of different textures such as dried forage. I highly recommend both Healthier Hops & Lottie's Little Rabbitry for their forage blends.  DIGGINGDigging is a very natural behaviour for bunnies as in the wild they dig warrens. These warren systems house populations of wild bunnies; where they will raise young and hide from predators. Here are some ways to encourage your bunnies to express these behaviours in a safe, natural way. Digging Box - First, you will need a large plastic storage container, or a box to contain the material. You then need to fill it with soil, sand, hay, shredded newspaper or a mixture of these and let your bunny enjoy! The simple act of digging will amuse your bunny and help them satisfy their need to dig. Towels & Blankets - If your bunny lives indoor you may like to reduce the amount of mess they can make, so instead of the above, offer your bunny a towel or blanket to scuff and dig on. They will enjoy having a rummage around, though, the bunny may tear or damage the town/blanket so I recommend using old ones! Ball Pit - The ball pit will still give your bunny the space to dig/move/throw/rearrange all they want without the mess of shredded paper or hay. FORAGINGYour rabbit may rely on you to feed them a healthy, balanced diet, but in the wild bunnies do not get careful selected, washed (if veg), chopped food presented on a platter! Its important for your rabbit forage to for it’s food will not only keep them occupied, it will also encourage them to tap into the food gathering instincts. Cardboard toilet rolls - You can stuff the toilet roll full of hay, dried forage and other yummy treats. Another way for your bunny to have forage toilet rolls, would be hanging the.; this will inhibit your bunnies natural urge to sit on their hind legs and stretch to reach the food. Paperbags - A very simple, fun way for your bunny to forage! I like to stuff my brown paper bags full of forage and hay- so your bunnies can dig around to find their tasty reward! Forage Box - yYou will need a large plastic storage container, or a box to contain the material. You then need to fill it with lots of hay, dried herbs (flowers, veg etc)- then mix mix mix! Once the treats for your bunnies are fully mixed into the hay pile, it is time to let your furry friend loose! Forage Brands I recommend!
BURROWINGAs rabbits are natural prey animals, it is extremely important for the to have a space where they can go and hide to feel safe. This is even more important if you have multiple bunnies as they may need space to hide from each other if they have a disagreement to give each other space.
Castles/Hides - Bunnies love hides, It gives them a safe space to hide an it also gives them a lookout points so they can hop up and survey their surroundings as they would in the wild. I get all my castles for my bunnies from Manor Pet Housing Cardboard Boxes - Cardboard boxes are a really good enrichment tool. I like to it a small hole in cardboard boxes and fill them with hay, this encourages your bunny to use it as a hide to be a safe space for them Flower Pots - This is the perfect quick hide away, whilst not taking up too much space. Be careful your rabbit doesn’t chew too much on the plastic though! This hide, works best being half sunken into the garden to give them a cosy place to retreat. Baskets - Seagrass and wicker (non treated) baskets make great hides for your bunnies, you can stuff these with hay and turn on their side. beware though; your bun may destroy the baskets! Tunnels - Plastic or cardboard tunnels mimic the dirt tunnels of rabbit warrens perfectly! Tunnels give bunnies a way to safely travel around and add interest for them when they're out playing.  This post is aimed for breeders who are unsure if their bunny has 'caught' after being mated. Like most mammals, the females stomach will expand when carrying babies as they grow- this is the most obvious sign of pregnancy! Aside from the obvious weight gain, she will likely begin to eat more food, and most does will also seem to get extra moody as the pregnancy advances.
  Credit to Olivia's Bunnies
 Credit to my friend, Olivia's Bunnies
 Credit to my friend, Olivia's Bunnies Self The first colour im going to talk about Is the self colour. The Self Pattern Is a rabbit that is just one solid color. Black Black rabbits are very striking looking with a richness to their coats that boasts a gorgeous slate blue undercoat. Blue Blue is another striking colour on rabbits with the fur being blue from its tip to its root at skin level. Chocolate Chocolate is another rich colour in rabbits with the colour going down the fur before it turns pearly grey at the undercoat. Lilac Lilac is a gorgeous pinkish/dove grey that starts at the skin right to the tips of the rabbit’s fur. Tort Sooty fawn – Black Tort Rabbits with this gorgeous colour are very striking with a rich orange saddle that gradually goes to a blue/black shade on their flanks, haunches and bellies. Their “points” are blue/black giving the rabbits a very striking appearance. Their undercoats in contrast are a lovely blue/white colour. Beige/Isabella – Blue tort This is a lovely colour which is a dark chamois or light sandy shade with faint ticks of blue throughout. At the base, the fur is tinted lighter, the middle is slightly darker and the tips darker still. A rabbits flanks, muzzle and the edges of their ears are a lovely shade of blue, however, the topsides of their hind legs are beige and their pads are blue. When it comes to their tails, these are beige on top and blue underneath. Bellies are beige with a lovely deeper blue shading. Sussex Gold- Chocolate Tort Chocolate tort is another gorgeous colour where a rich orange saddle down the rabbit’s back gradually turns to shades of brown on their flanks, haunches and bellies with “points” staying brown. The undercoat is a brownish/white in colour which gives the coat a striking contrast. Sussex Cream- Lilac Tort Lilac tort sees a rich orange coloured saddle that gradually turns to a shade of lilac on a rabbit’s flanks, haunches and bellies with the “points” remaining lilac in colour. The undercoat however, is a gorgeous lilac/white in colour. Otter The next colour i’m going to talk about is the otter colour. Otter coloured rabbits can be a lovely black, blue, chocolate or lilac that covers their sides and backs but their under bellies are creamy white as are their chins and tails. Their feet are a combination of both colours and they have tan ticking on their chests, flanks and rumps. Their eyes are circled with a tan colour which is also found on the napes and necks. Ears are the same colour as the body but laced with tan which is on the inside of them too. Huge Thank you to Saffron Springs Stud for the following pictures! x Blue OtterBlack OtterChocolate OtterLilac OtterFox Fox rabbits can be blue, black, chocolate or lilac colour. Their chests, flanks and feet are ticked with gorgoeus white guard hairs giving the rabbit a really striking appearance which is helped by their eye circles, inside of ears, and the underside of the jowls, tails and bellies being white. They are Chinchillarized Otter. Black FoxBlue FoxChocolate FoxLilac FoxAgouti Chestnut Agouti- Black Agouti The colour agouti is a rich shade of chestnut that boasts black ticking on an orange middle coat but the undercoat is slate blue. Rabbits with this lovely colour usually have black ears and circles around their eyes. The underside of their tails and bellies are white with a slate coloured undercoat. Opal - Blue Agouti This is a gorgeous colour where the top coat is a pale blue with a fawn middle coat finished off with a slate blue under coat which gives the rabbit's coat an almost iridescent look to it. Body colour will appear gray/blue at birth with a pink belly, chest and inside of legs. The opal gets a tan triangle at the base of the neck. Eye circles are white with tan, as is the nose lacing. A ring pattern can be appreciated when you blow into the coat. Eye colour is blue-gray. Cinnamon - Chocolate Agouti This is a lovely warm shade of brown with brownish ticking over an orange middle coat and a gorgeous light blue or even lilac undercoat. Rabbits with this amazing colour have brown laced ears, circles around their eyes with the underside of their tails and bellies being white with either a slate or lilac under coat. Lynx - Lilac Agouti The colour lynx is a lovely orange/silver with a middle coat that is a clearly defined orange but with a white undercoat. The tips of the fur are silver with the belly being the same, and rabbits boast circles around their eyes. The insides of their ears and underside of their jowls are white with their chests matching their flanks. The body appears lilac at birth and as it ages turns tan/fawn they should have a ring pattern when you blow into the coat. Chinchilla Chinchilla- Black Chinchilla This colour is a sparkling combination of black and white with black ticking over a pearly coloured middle band and a slate undercoat. Rabbits with this lovely colouring have black laced ears, circles around their eyes and the underside of their tails and bellies are white with a striking slate undercoat. Squirrel - Blue Chinchilla Squirrel is a lovely mixture of blue and white with blue ticking over a pearly white middle coat and gorgeous light slate coloured undercoat. Rabbits with this colour boast lovely blue laced ears and circles around their eyes. The underside of their tails and bellies are white with a light slate coloured undercoat. Chocolate Chinchilla This is another lovely blend of colours being brown and white but with brown ticking over a pearly white middle coat that has a slate or lovely lilac undercoat. A rabbit with this colour has brown laced ears and circles around their eyes with the underside of their tails and bellies being a white with a gorgeous slate or lilac undercoat. Lilac Chinchilla Lilac chinchilla coloured rabbits boast being a lilac and white with a lilac ticking over a pearly white middle coat that has a light slate or even lilac undercoat. A rabbit with this colouring has lilac laced ears and circles around their eyes with their tails and bellies being white with a gorgeous slate or lilac undercoat. Frosted Pearl (Frosty) The body colour is to be an off-white shade with either black, blue, chocolate or lilac shading on the nose, ears, feet and tail. Eyes should be brown or blue-gray. Blue Frosty Chocolate Frosty Lilac Frosty Tort AgoutiOrange This is a bright orange colour with rabbits having a saddle shading that drops down their flanks. The undercoat however, is white. They have circles around their eyes and the inside of their ears, underside of their jowls, tails and bellies are white. Fawn Rabbits with this colouring have a lovely warm fawn saddle down their flanks with a white undercoat. Their eyes are circled but the insides of their ears, the underside of jowls, tails and bellies are pure white. Harlequin (eJ) This is a striking orange/fawn colour that covers a rabbit's entire body with bands of blue, black, chocolate or lilac along their bodies. First of all, it should be noted that the harlequin (Japanese Brindle) coat colour in rabbits is caused by the third allele at extension. This beautiful pattern is known as eJ and it is also recessive to the Steel gene (ES). If it is incompletely recessive, it can "leak", to agouti based coats (i.e. Wild Type aka 'E'). So, if there are no other modifiers/patterns involved, it causes black stripes or colour blotches on the bunnies coat. Of course, Harlequin can be in all 4 colour bases such as Black, Chocolate, Lilac and Blue depending on other generics behind the bunny. Generally, the harlequin pattern with only express if it is intact, homozygous (which would be eJeJ) or if is heterozygous with e (eJe). In addition; Harlequin pattern has been known to express on an chestnut based (Eej A-) rabbit causing what is known as 'harlequinized agouti chestnuts'. This gives the result of striping in the coat. Edges of the ears and the belly are the most common places in the bunnies coat to be affected by this gene. When the coat is stripped in patches patterns the rabbit is called harlequinized. Rabbits that are eJeJ will be harlequin regardless of their other alleles. meaning that a rabbit will be harlequin even if it is aa or even atat on the ASIP locus. A true harlequin is agouti based- they express true harlequin pattern and are the best to be used in a breeding program! Torted harlequin as much less desirable as the tort gene causes undesired shading and also interupts the clean, heavy markings and replaces the markings with poor, small markings. If the bunny is eJe then the it will only be true harlequin if it is A- . If t is 'at-' or 'aa' it will express some degree of "tort" coloration. Harlequins should be bred to other Harlequins, Magpie, Tri or Agouti based bunnies to enhance the quality of markings. However, overall Harlequins are a very pretty, but dominant colour to work with. Black Harlequin Blue Harlequin Chocolate Harlequin Lilac Harlequin Points/Shaded Seal Point Seal point coloured rabbits are simply gorgeous looking. They have rich dark sepia brown coloured ears with their nose, feet and tails being the same colour. Their body's however, are much lighter in colour which gives them a really striking look. Blue Point They have Blue coloured ears with their nose, feet and tails being the same colour. Their body's however, are much lighter in colour which gives them a really striking look. This is the dilute of seal point Chocolate Point They have Chocolate coloured ears with their nose, feet and tails being the same colour. Their body's however, are much lighter in colour which gives them a really striking look. Siamese Sable Siamese sable rabbits have a rich sepia colour on their backs, ears, faces, on the outside of their legs and upper sides of their tails. They also have a saddle on their backs and boast a unbroken dark line from head to tail. Their flanks are a gorgeous sepia shade which is a much paler colour than found on their backs. All the shades of sepia blend seamlessly with the lightest spot being on their bellies. Smoke The body is to be a smoke-like gray colour with a blue-gray like colour on the chest, flanks and belly. Eyes are to be blue-gray.  Before Mating:
APPLE CIDER VINEGAR: Increases receptivity BUY ME PARSLEY: Increases receptivity BUY ME BLACK OIL SUNFLOWER SEEDS: Increases receptivity & Condition BUY ME Pregnancy | Pre-Birth: BLACKBERRY: Soothing & Helps cool pregnant does BUY ME COMFREY: Good vitamin A source for pregnant & nursing does LAVENDER: Induces Labour & Relaxes nervous Moms-to-be BUY ME BLUE COHOSH: Dialate birth canal, Induce labour RASPBERRY LEAVES: Prenatal supplement for strong birth BUY ME STRAWBERRY LEAVES: Prevents miscarriage (Iron rich) BUY ME Post-Birth: BORAGE: Increases Milk Flow DANDELION: Increases Milk Flow BUY ME GOATS RUE: Increases Milk Flow FENNEL: Increases Milk Flow MILK THISTLE: Increase Milk Flow BUY ME NETTLES: : Increase Milk Flow BUY ME LAVENDER: Can Expel placental material BUY ME MARIGOLD: Healing BUY ME Weaning (Drying up milk) MINT: drying up milk flow BUY ME |
